Make it Sew | Drawstring Fish Bag

fish_2

Sweetly paired with Underwater by Elizabeth Olwen, these little drawstring bags are really handy for holding smaller things, gift bags or even as a little purse for the littles. Here’s how to make your own.

Print out the PDF pattern pieces here.

Outer body:

Tail – cut 2 (solid)
Body – cut 2 (print)
Head – cut 2 (solid)
Batting for tail – cut 1
Lining – cut 2 (contrast solid)
2 buttons for eyes
2 18” drawstrings (1yd total)

Directions:

Use 1/4” seam allowance unless otherwise noted.

Outer body

  1. Sew tail to body, and body to head to make two full outer sides of the bag. Press all seams towards tail.
  2. Sew button to head in area located in diagram.
  3. Topstitch along the lower edge of the body/head seam.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-1-49-48-pm
  4. With right sides together and laying the tail/batting on top of tail and sew along outer edge, sides and tail, keeping the “mouth” of fish open. Snip corners of tail and curves, turn inside out and press.screen-shot-2016-12-07-at-1-54-48-pm
  5. Topstitch at the tail/body seam. through all thicknesses (sealing off the tail).
  6. For tail details, stitch along the lines, or create your own stitched design.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-2-08-31-pm
  7. At mouth, turn edge 1/2” inside and press.

Lining

  1. Sew sides and bottom, except for the area between the 2 marked points. Press seams open.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-1-41-31-pm
  2. Turn right side out in order to topstitch around the holes as shown – this keeps the seam allowance tacked down. Then turn it back to wrong side out.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-1-43-44-pm
  3. Fold on the line noted on pattern toward wrong (currently the outside) side and press.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-1-46-49-pm

Assembly

  1. Slip the lining into the outer shell. Line up the opening of the holes on the sides so they meet the folded edge of the outer head. The “lips” should be exposed about 1/2”
  2. Pin around and ease any excess of the outer body to the lining.
  3. Topstitch at the top edge of the outer body.screen-shot-2016-12-08-at-1-50-18-pm
  4. Take one of the drawstrings and enter/exit for the right and tie a knot. Take the other and enter/exit from the left and knot. Pull both drawstrings to close.

Make It Sew | Unicorn and Stars Wall Hanging

unicorn_quilt_blogWe have had a great response to our Holding Horses quilt for Aneela Hoey’s Stay Gold collection and there was more than one request/suggestion to make it a unicorn. And here it is! We modified the silhouette a little and we think this version, appliquéd expertly by Linda Spiridon and quilted magically by Sue Papalia sparkles in We Are All Stars.

This is only a template. You can scale it to any size you like but this is printed at 100% the size you see in the photo.

unicornquilt_closeup_blog

Use whatever appliqué methods you like best on whatever size panel you care for. You can also make an entire quilt by piecing blocks together. For a more whimsical wall hanging, try some fancy trims. Sky’s the limit! Enjoy.

Download the 4 page template here.

Make it Sew | Harness Boot Christmas Stocking

stockingsingle_600
Print pattern and assemble pieces. Download here.
Cutting Directions:
Boot: Cut 2 Outer Fabric (Print)
Boot: Cut 2 Lining Fabric (Solid)
Cuff: Cut 4 on the Fold of Lining (Solid)
Harness Ankle Piece: Cut 2 on the Fold of Lining (Solid)
Harness Arch Piece: Cut 2 of Lining (Solid)
Hanging Loop: Cut 1 rectangle 4 1/2″ x 6 1/2″ of Lining (Solid)
Batting: Cut 2 of Main Boot
Use 1/2″ seam allowance on boot. Use 1/4″ seam allowance on cuff and harness pieces.
Instructions:
1. Pin batting to the wrong side of each of the boot outer fabric. Baste together with 1/4 ” seam allowance. Trim away any excess batting around the edges.
boot-1
2. Top stitch quilting rows from top of boot to bottom (vertically) To determine even rows, fold the boot in half and mark center row with pins.  Stitch this row.
boot-2
3. The rows will be 1 1/2″ apart.  If you have a width gauge on the machine foot, you can use that or, mark with pins. Repeat for other side of boot.
boot-3
boot-4
boot-5
4. Cuffs:  Fold right sides together, length wise. Sew both short ends closed. Clip corners, turn to right side and press.
boot-6
5. Place raw edge of cuff on the right side of the top of the boot, matching the center of the cuff to the center row of quilting stitch. Stitch in place with 1/8″ seam allowance.
boot-7
6. Hanging Loop:  Press in half, wrong sides together, along 6 1/2 ” length. Press each side into center.  Fold that in half & press.  This should measure 1″ x 6 1/2″  Top stitch along the long length of the loop, closing the folds
boot-8
boot-9
7. Fold tab loop in half (matching raw edges together) Place raw edge of loop along the raw edge of the cuff.  This will be the back so it should be to the left side, toward the back of the boot, above the heel.
boot-10
8. Outer Boot: With boot pieces right sides together, ( be sure cuff and tab are free from seam) Use a 1/2 ” seam allowance to sew together, but at the bottom of the heel & tip of toe switch to a 1/4 ” seam to lengthen them. Leave top open. Clip curves and into corners. Turn right side out and press.
boot-11
9. Boot Lining: Pin boot lining pieces right sides together.  Mark a 6 ” opening along the calf seam (this will be left open for turning )  Sew along sides, leaving the 6″ area open and the top of the boot open. Clip curves and corners.
boot-12
10. Without turning the lining (still wrong side out)  slide it over the outside of the boot. Line up the seam at the top of the boot, matching the side seams. With a 1/4 ” seam allowance sew all the way around the top of the boot, through all layers.
boot-13
boot-14
11. Pull outer boot through the 6″ opening of the lining. Pull the lining to the right side and press the lining flat.  Top stitch close to the edge of the 6″ opening to close it.  Push lining inside of boot and press.
boot-15
boot-16
12. Harness Arch Piece:  With right sides together, sew with 1/4 ” seam across point of arch piece, repeat on other set.
boot-17
13. Open both pieces and press seam flat. Match the two sets right sides together and stitch along the long edges (leaving the short edges unfinished). Turn right side out and press.
boot-18
14. Harness Ankle Piece:  Open fold of both pieces and lay right sides together. Sew with 1/4 ” seam along the V.  Trim seam and clip the center of the V.  Press seam flat. Fold right sides together and sew 1/4″ seam along the long unfinished edges. Turn inside out and press.
boot-19
boot-20
15. Constructing the Harness: You will want to “fit” the harness before final assembly.
 screen-shot-2016-11-29-at-8-55-37-am
a. Wrap Harness Ankle Piece around the boot ankle. On the front side of the raw edged opening, tuck under the raw edge into the tube of the harness. On the back side of the raw edged opening, slip the raw edge into the front side tube. You may want to trim some of the excess fabric. When it fits nice and lays smooth, pin well in place. (You will remove the harness to sew, so do not pin it to the boot itself)screen-shot-2016-11-29-at-8-58-31-am
b. Wrap Harness Arch Piece under the arch and lay over the Harness Ankle Piece, pinning in place for marking (on both sides). Using erasable fabric marker/chalk, mark points A, B, and C.screen-shot-2016-11-29-at-9-01-02-am
c. Unpin the Harness Arch Piece and then slip the Harness Ankle Piece off the boot without removing pin.
d. Topstitch the Harness Ankle Piece to secure the back and front.
e. Using a seam ripper, pick open the stitches between the two A and B marks you made (on both sides).screen-shot-2016-11-29-at-9-18-20-am
f. Slip the Harness Arch Piece into the slots you created and slide in up to mark C. Pin in place (on both sides). Topstitch the arch to Harness Ankle Piece.screen-shot-2016-11-29-at-9-11-01-am16. Slip Harness back onto the boot and sew a large button onto the ankle through
all layers on the front side of the boot👢😊
boot-22
stockingduo_600

 

Tutorial | Laminated Cotton Shower Cap

Here’s a quick and easy project and one perfect for our water-resistant laminates.

shower_cap_final

Sewing with our laminates is very similar to sewing with cotton. With a few small tips you can construct any items you would with other fabrics.

  • Using a resin foot attachment to your sewing machine or a similar type of foot that might be suggested by the maker of your sewing machine is essential or top stitching.
  • Use a test swatch of the fabrics (wrong sides together as in this pattern)
  • Adjust tension & stitch size (longer stitches work well for top stitching)
  • Guiding the fabrics from behind and the front of the foot will keep your pieces from moving

______

Laminate Shower Cap by Catherine Zebrowski

Materials:

  • Outer fabric (in laminate) -23” square
  • Inner fabric (in cotton or similar) – 23” square
  • Binding – at least 68” long bias binding. We made double fold 1/2” wide bias binding using lining fabric.  It is not recommended to do the binding in the laminate.
  • 1/4″ wide elastic at least as long as the measurement around your head + 2 inches.
Instructions:
  1. Draw a circle 20” in diameter on the face of the laminate in the center of the square. You can use a permanent marker – this will be a cut line later and the edge will be covered by the binding later.
  2. Place the squares wrong sides together and pin through both around the entire permitter of the square but important: be sure not to go inside of the 20″ circle,  Pin holes cannot be ironed out of the laminate..
  3. Top stitch through both pieces, placing your stitches 7/8 ” inside of the 20″ marked circle completely around.
  4. Cut through both fabrics along the 20″ circle marking.
  5. To bind: place the binding around the edge, covering the laminate and lining.  Top stitch around the entire cap sewing through both the top and the bottom of the binding at once.  When the end of the bias meets the start, leave a 1/2″ opening.
  6. Thread elastic in the casing that is created between the stitches and pin. Try it on and see if it needs tightening and adjust accordingly. Stitch both ends of the elastic together.
  7. Finish sewing the binding closed, tucking under raw edges.
Voila! You have an adorable new shower cap!

Make it Sew | Stitched Valentines

KB_VD4This is a simple idea that’s full of possibilities. They could be made for any holiday or occasion. What’s really wonderful though is that it’s perfect for scraps and your little sewists. The directions are vague which is nice because it leaves room for interpretation. We had 4″ envelopes so we worked backwards from there.

KN_VD1Mo Willems’ Knuffle Bunny was a great fabric to use for young ones since it combines a favorite character and hearts!KB_VD5

1. We printed out some sayings for a computer onto a stiff paper stock. This isn’t necessary, since you can always handwrite your Valentine’s Day wishes. As for size, we made the paper portion smaller so we could use fabric as a frame. So in this case, the finished size is for a 4″ envelope and the paper squares are about 3″ leaving 1″ in fabric border.

2. We cut fabric scraps roughly at about 5″ squares – enough so we didn’t have to line things up too strictly before sewing. Layering fabrics wrong sides together and placed the paper on top. We did not pin things because we didn’t want to leave a mark in the paper, but you could use spray glues if thought it would help for littler hands.

* We took the extra step in adding a layer of white fabric between the prints so they wouldn’t show though.

KB_VD33. Using any stitch you like and sewing with the paper facing up, stitch around the edge of the paper. Trim loose ends.

4. Finally, trim the fabrics to the desired size with pinking shears.

5. For a finishing touch, we added fabric “stamps”.KB_VD2

Tutorial | Tote with Zip Pouch

 

There’s a million ways to make a shopping tote, but we’re partial to this one! The little zipper pouch keeps things tidy in your purse or car while making it convenient to carry these essential little bags around.

Using only 1 yd of fabric, this is an affordable project – excellent for gifting, too. The tote hardly takes any time at all to stitch together. The zipper pouch, a little more – but worth the effort. Do it assembly-line style and you can have 3 totes in a day (like these eye-catching ones in iHaus).

Here’s the link to the project download – the pattern pieces are included (pages 14-22).